As a general rule of thumb, itвЂ™s always a better idea to water plants from below than from above. вЂ¦the list goes on and on, but there are plenty of varieties you can consider growing. Some good varieties to consider growing, especially if you have had an issue with blight in the past, include: Over the years, researchers have isolated genetics that make tomatoes more resistant to blight. You might also consider planting tomatoes that are blight-resistant. These should be grown from seed or purchased from a reliable grower вЂ“ after all, nothing is worse than unknowingly planting disease plants! Only plant healthy tomatoes in your garden. Toss these when you weed instead of composting them вЂ“ that way, you donвЂ™t have to worry about accidentally reintroducing disease to your garden. Remove any weedy relatives of tomatoes, like ground cherries and nightshade plants. Keeping the garden as weed-free as possible is another step you can take in your fight against blight. Not only does good crop rotation prevent blight, but it can keep a whole host of other pests and diseases at bay, too.ДonвЂ™t plant your tomatoes in the same spot where tomatoes or related plants (such as eggplant, potatoes, and peppers) were grown within the last three years.Д®arly blight diseases can overwinter in infected plant debris and in the soil in most places, even those with harsh winter weather. Rotate Your CropsД®ven if youвЂ™ve never had a problem with blight in the past, itвЂ™s a good idea to get in the habit of rotating your crops. There are a few ways you can prevent and treat blight disease. How Do You Stop Early Blight? 13 Preventative Tips These can move via the wind, human contact, or cultivation equipment, making it easy for gardens to be continuously reinfected.Д®arly blight is most common when temperatures are warm (between 60 and 86 degrees Fahrenheit) and wet (90% humidity or greater is the ideal breeding ground for this disease). Symptoms can appear very quickly вЂ“ in as little as four or five days вЂ“ and spores are spread easily. If you arenвЂ™t sure whether your plants have early or late blight, donвЂ™t worry вЂ“ the end result is the same (your tomatoes will die and your yields will suffer) and many of the treatments are also the same. The fruit can be affected at any stage, causing leathery black fruit spots, often near the stme, with infected fruits falling from the plant. Sometimes the seedling will wilt and die entirely. This usually occurs right at or above the soil line, with the stem becoming sunken, dry, and brown. Sometimes it is seedling stems that are affected. As time goes on, these spots will become rounder, larger, and browner, often causing leaves to turn brown or fall off the plant. With early blight, youвЂ™ll notice that small dark spots first form on older foliage that is growing close to the ground. Late blight kills tomatoes slowly, often more slowly than potatoes, but it will totally annihilate your fruits. Incidentally, this is the same pathogen responsible for causing the Irish Potato Famine. This is caused by a different pathogen вЂ“ Phytophthora infestans.

These usually have darker concentric circles inside of them.ДЄlthough symptoms can appear later in the life cycle of a tomato, if you notice systems primarily on plants that are just about to be harvested, this is probably late blight. The most telltale sign of early blight is when you detect leaves with circular lesions that are up to half an inch in diameter each. If it occurs later on in a tomato plantвЂ™s life cycle, it can cause issues such as leaf blight, stem cankers, and blakc fruit rot. Video canвЂ™t be loaded because JavaScript is disabled: Tomato early blight treatment () What is Early Blight?Д®arly blight ( Alternaria tomatophila and Alternaria solani) is a disease that can appear early on in the life cycle of the tomato, causing seedling damping off (also known as rot) as well as later on.

Early blight